Like to cruise groomed runs? Slash powder? Squeak through chutes? Or ride the park? A good starting point for finding the right snowboard is to imagine what you see yourself riding, odds are there is a board perfectly built for what you’re looking to do.
The learning curve on a snowboard is relatively fast, so if you’re a beginner, you should consider buying for where you want to be and aim for a board that will accommodate your preferred riding style. Of course there are boards that are more beginner oriented however we don’t want you feeling limited by your board once you’re getting the hang of it.
Picking the right snowboard is an important first step to an enjoyable snowboarding experience because the wrong board can make it hard for you to stabilize yourself, turn, carve, and do anything else you’re ready for.
Professional riders meticulously choose what board to ride depending on the day or what conditions a day could possibly have to offer; they want to be most equipped to handle that terrain. Mark McMorris isn’t going to choose the Burton Process when he is mauling his competition run in Natural Selection for good reason. The Process is not the best option for that terrain; he is going to choose the board that best suits what he wants to do. We, as consumers, need to have this same mindset: get a board that works for what you want to accomplish.
The snowboard you should get depends on your experience, riding style, and what terrain you’re riding on. There are mainly 4 types of boards to choose from and we’ll cover each one below so you can decide which one makes the most sense for you.
Hopefully talking about the types of snowboards there are, you’re more suited to make a choice on what you want to ride. Moving forward, let’s get you measured up to make sure you get the right length and width based on your size, ability, and preferred type of riding.
There are multiple different snowboard shapes and 10 flex ratings. Each is going to give you a different experience, which is dependent on what you want to do with your board. Lets go over some general board shapes to give you an idea of what’s out there.
| True Twin | Directional Twin | Asymmetrical Twin | Directional |
| Centered Mounting inserts, bindings can be mounted so you have an equal amount of nose and tail | Tip and tail are the same shape ( some differ slightly and that is what makes the a directional twin) | Tip and tail are the same shape | Tapered Tip to Tail: The tip is wider than the tail |
| Identical flex in both nose and tail | Identical flex in both nose and tail | Centered Mounting inserts, bindings can be mounted so you have an equal amount of nose and tail | A longer nose that is softer than the tail |
| Tip and tail are the same shape | Half inch or under of setback from center of the twin shape | There’s a deeper sidecut on the heel edge for an improved edge hold | A set back stance |
A twin shaped board is smoother for riding switch or backwards. These boards have a centered stance, balanced flex pattern and most commonly found in freestyle/all mountain boards.
Boards with a slight setback stance can be twin in shape (like the Lib Tech Terrain Wrecker or Gnu Essential) or directional in shape (like the Lib Tech Orca or Jones Flagship) and mostly have a slightly directional flex pattern (stiffer in the tail and softer in the nose). These are generally all mountain boards and great for all types of riding and snow conditions. It gives you a more balanced feel for some freestyle but directional performance for freeriding.
Now lets switch gears just a bit and talk about the 10 flex ratings we see across most brands! (Each number means that number out of 10, 1 being the softest and 10 being the stiffest.)
1 – Extremely Soft
2 – Soft
3 – Mid-Soft
4 – Medium Soft
5 – Medium
6 – Medium Stiff
7 – Stiff
8 – Very Stiff
9 – Extra Stiff
10 – Might as well be a 2×4
Freestyle: Soft to Medium (2-5 Flex)
All Mountain: Mid-Soft to Medium to Stiff (3-7 Flex)
Freeride: Medium to Stiff to Very Stiff (5-8 Flex)
Powder: Medium to Stiff (5-7)
Compare the pros and cons of the categories that interest you. Say if you want a board that has premium lock-in capability, you’re going to want something softer so that it bends and locks you in, whereas if you’re looking to set speed records and really push the freeride side of riding, I would recommend a stiffer board. Think about it in conjunction with everything getting covered in this article.
A snowboard’s profile is based on what the board looks like when it’s lying on a flat surface and you look at it from the side. Just like shape and flex, profile is important for the type of riding you want to do. Different profiles offer advantages and disadvantages to what you’re trying to accomplish; the two shapes we primarily find are:
Traditional Camber: The tip and tail contact points contact the ground and the center of the board is lifted off the ground.
Rocker: The tip and tail contact points are lifted off the ground and the center of the board making contact. Tip and tail is teetering.
With camber and rocker being the base of most snowboard profiles, we see many companies play around with it to find what works best in their opinions. Mervin, Never Summer, Ride, Burton, and Jones all have their own set of profiles based on these two that they build boards around. 2025 is exciting since we saw not only Mervin move forward with introducing new profiles like their Blue Camber but also saw Never Summer capitalize on their new Triple Camber Technology.
Lets dive into Mervin, which is GNU and Lib Tech Snowboards since they have a system classifying their profiles. Let’s kick it off with the Blue Camber that they introduced to most of their line this year. This is that traditional camber that we are used to seeing throughout the years of development of snowboarding. Next closest to the Blue Camber is their C3 Camber technology. The C3 means that it’s the traditional camber profile that has a section of mild rocker in the center that acts as a small pivot point when the board is being stood on. After that, we head into their rocker dominant profiles, C2 and C2x; this is a profile that is overall rocker but with camber pockets beneath the front and back foot inserts. This allows you to have a very catch-free ride that is more forgiving, easier for learners to get the basics down on, but doesn’t sacrifice any of the good things that camber has to offer. Then they have their BTX, better known as Banana Technology, which is a rocker-dominant shape with very mild camber pockets underfoot. It’s easy to learn on, floats in pow, and has a very jibby feel to it.
The tip and tail contact points contact the ground and the center of the board is lifted off the ground.
C3 is the most aggressive camber in the Mervin line, providing control, precision and power. Mild rocker between the feet maximizes edge contact and optimizes performance, while overall camber builds in pop, stability and control. This is the camber perfect for aggressive snowboarding.
Rocker between the feet with powerful camber to the tip and tail. Enough power pop and precision to technically hit the biggest wedges, enough float and freedom to rip the gnarliest AK pow lines or stomp that line in the park.
With mild rocker between your feet and mild camber to the tip and tail, original banana is the most fun camber to progress on. If you’re just starting out, this is the camber for you. With rocker through the center, you can enjoy carving, edge hold and float, and with mild camber under foot, you’ll get pop, stability and control.
Alright, now that we’ve established what rocker and camber are and the different variations we find, what seems to suit you? Are you a beginner or just looking for a forgiving snowboard? Try out the C2 or Banana Tech. Are you an aggressive rider looking for maximum pop and control? Give the Blue Camber or C3 a shot! Do you just want a board that will perform no matter the conditions, whether it’s a park lap, side hits, or a powder day? Mixed profiles like C2 or C3 are going to be able to handle anything you through at them so maybe just give one a shot!
This is where a lot of people find themselves a bit lost; a lot of factors actually play into finding the right-sized board. Height, weight, boot size, and board type all can help guide you in the right direction to finding a properly sized board. For example, for freestyle, riding a shorter board helps do spin tricks, get up on rails without clipping, and minimize the swing weight. For someone just starting out, a super-long snowboard is going to be harder to control; a shorter board is a bit easier to learn on. Now on the other end of the spectrum, for freeriding, a longer board with more surface area will be more stable at speeds, or a volume-shifted model may suit you. For the general all-mountain rider or first board purchaser, you don’t want the board to be below the chest or above the eye line; opt for something that sits from chin to nose when you stand next to it. Weight is also going to play a factor in what flex to choose; for someone lighter, it may be a better idea to choose a softer flexing board.
Here’s a general snowboard size chart for some guidelines to follow:
| Rider Height (in) | Rider Weight (lbs) | Snowboard Size (cm) |
| 4ft 10in | 110 – 120 | 128 – 136 |
| 5ft | 115 – 130 | 133 – 141 |
| 5ft 2in | 125 – 135 | 139 – 147 |
| 5ft 4in | 135 – 145 | 144 – 152 |
| 5ft 6in | 140 – 155 | 149 – 157 |
| 5ft 8in | 150 – 165 | 154 – 162 |
| 5ft 10in | 160 – 175 | 159 – 167 |
| 6ft | 170 – 185 | 160+ |
| 6ft 2in | 180 – 195 | 160+ |
| 6ft 4in | 190 – 205 | 160+ |
Your boot size is the determining factor when it comes to the width of your snowboard. The board should be appropriate to your boot size. Smaller feet generally have more freedom when it comes to board width, whereas with larger feet you’re going to need a wider board. The whole reason this matters is because we are looking to slim or totally mitigate the potential for any heel/toe drag; this can really mess up the ride of any board, so it’s crucial to make sure this isn’t occurring to you. A narrower board will have easier turn initiation and faster edge-to-edge responsiveness, whereas a wider board is more stable going fast and has more surface area, which is equal to float.
Women with a size 9 boot -> Opt for a Men’s Snowboard or a volume shifted model. May be able to find a board that has a naturally wider waist then a typical women’s snowboard.
Men with a size 10 boot and under -> The world is your oyster, a standard width board will be the more nimble option but get a wide if you want the extra surface area.
Men with a size 10.5 and larger boot -> Opt for a wide snowboard, this well help negate any sort of drag or overhang for the best ride every time you step on your board.
Men with a size 13+ -> Consider a Drag Free model from Never Summer, coming in at a 280mm waist that is massive!
This will also come into play; whether a seasoned rider or a first-timer, this is something we should all consider in our purchase.
Beginner and intermediate riders should use slightly shorter boards since they’re easier to turn and maneuver. Don’t get the 167 cm that is on sale just because it’s a good deal; get a board that will fit you and even size it on the smaller side. For example, if you’re 6 feet tall and 185 pounds, that 160 cm is the most appealing size, but maybe you’re a fist timer or a park rider, so consider coming down to even a 159 cm or 158 cm board. Intermediate and advanced riders CAN opt for slightly longer boards, which have noticeably less bounce and wobble, making them much more stable when you’re speeding down the mountain. Longer boards are perfect for freeriding because you can float in powder at a stable speed without feeling the bounce of a shorter board.
If you’re still stuck between a shorter board vs a longer board think about what you want to accomplish with this snowboard.
Now you have the knowledge to really lock in and start deciding on the make and model snowboard you want. Reference this frequently if need be while you’re researching new snowboard’s.
Getting properly dialed in means that your boots fit, your bindings fit snug with your boots, and making sure your stance is comfortable for your riding style. In most ways, this is more important than the board you choose; these things can make or break a day out in the mountains. That’s what makes choosing the right snowboard so important; you want it to all integrate for seamless use, which means tailoring everything to your preferred needs.
The snowboard boots are the most essential part of any outing; they need to keep you warm while also fitting and providing support and stability. An ill-fitting boot is what ends most days; you know what I’m talking about—the dreaded top of foot burn or your toe digging into the toe box, or, on the other hand, having your foot slosh side to side and front to back during every movement because your boot is too big. Make sure your boots are properly sized and fit well.
Lets take a look at stance, bindings, and then boots.
The starting point with the stance is figuring out whether you’re a goofy or regular stance rider.
If you’re unsure which stance you are, have a friend lightly push your back as if they were pushing you over. What foot did you step with? Whichever foot you stepped with to catch you, have that as your front foot.
Now that you know if you have a Regular Stance or a Goofy Stance, let’s look at your Stance Width. How far apart are your feet from each other when you’re on your board?
Stance width really comes down to the rider height:
Your stance is where you feel most comfortable on your board, without having your feet too close together or far apart. If you are unsure, a good starting point is to measure your shoulder width and adjust your stance about 2 inches from that. For example, if from shoulder to shoulder measures 19 inches, try a 21-22 inch stance to start.
For the sake of this article, let’s say there are 5 common ways to position your bindings on the snowboard. Some riders may have their own methods that work, but here is a rough guide to dial in the right one for you.
Centered Stance
Bindings are positioned, allowing for an equal amount of nose and tail on the board. This is favorable for riding switch or backwards and freestyle snowboarding. This is perfect for the park rider, or maybe the all-mountain rider who chose a directional twin to really treat the mountain like a skatepark.
Set Back Stance
Bindings are positioned set back from the tip of the board. This is so you have more nose than tail for powder riding and directional performance. This is a common setup for freeride and many all-mountain boards. Directional snowboards come ready to go with a set back from center; this mimics that, or can create an even longer nose for more float.
Ducked Stance
Bindings are positioned equally between the left and right foot, angling the toes out from the heels. The front foot is sitting at a positive angle, and the rear foot is sitting at an equal angle but negatively. This is extremely common amongst riders. Improves switch riding capability.
Positive Angle Stance
Bindings are both set to positive angles, meaning your rear foot is pointing toward the tip of the board in alignment with your front foot. This stance is used by riders who like to carve and is more commonly used on alpine or free-carve boards. Angling the bindings forward eliminates overhang and puts a rider more forward or down the fall line of the mountain. It is not advantageous for riding switch stance or freestyle.
Old School/Powder Stance
The back foot is at a 0 degree angle, while the front foot is positively angled. Super common amongst powder riders, the setback stance is basically just the new wave version of this. This stance has been tried and true and is a great time on an overhead powder day.
Once you find the preferred stance for your desired riding style, its time to find the right binding to match up with you. There are three preferences that come to mind when talking about binding baseplate stiffness.
The stiffer the baseplate is, the more aggressive the binding is; this also goes for the highback. This is great for freeriding; however, a park rider or freestyle rider should opt for a softer binding for more tweakability and flex.
Onto the most important part of any setup, the snowboard boots.
Just like your bindings, boots vary in softness or stiffness. Both categories serve their own purpose and ultimately will help you depending on the type of riding you want to do.
Stiff Boots: Great for the freerider in mind; maximum response and stability create rigidity where needed when charging hard.
Soft Boots: Great for the park rider or freestyle rider. It helps with how much you can tweak your board or frees the ankle up for a more surfy feeling ride.
When it comes to the size of your boots, you want to make sure they’re not too big or too small. The best boot for you has your toes right at the end without any pressure points. The reason you want your toes right at the end is that once they’re broken in, they’ll pack out about a quarter of a size, so if you start with boots too big, they’ll be another half size too big once they’re broken in. This is extremely important in the boot selection process; try them on and walk around your home or the store for 5 minutes to make sure this stays true when moving.
We’re going to go over some features and construction that add to your snowboarding experience.
Your board is going to have a plethora of materials through out the components. Whether its the top sheet, the internals, or the base, these materials that make the snowboard up also play into its performance. Here its going to be broken down to some of the materials we are seeing inside these sweet rides.
Base: Either sintered (more durable, faster, stronger, and holds wax) or extruded. Higher end more expensive models generally feature a sintered base due to the advantages over an extruded base.
Internal Construction: This is where things really get crazy, every company does their own thing, and these materials really gift a board its preferred terrain.
The sidecut radius measures the radius of the side of the board and can change the angle of your turns. There are 4 types of sidecuts:
The effective edge is the length of the edge in contact with the snow and changes how long you can ride for. There are 2 types of effective edges:
Taper is the difference between the width of the tip and tail of your board and this changes how your board floats in powder. More taper makes the tip of your board float better in powder by driving the tail down into the snow.
Your tip and tail can also be low profile, blunted or early rise. A low profile tip and tail reduce the plowing effect and a blunted tip lessens wing weight when you’re turning and in the air. An early rise tip increases the upturn of the nose of the board to add to powder floatation and glide in wet, slushy snow conditions.
Choosing the right snowboard is crucial for optimizing your performance and enjoyment on the slopes. By considering factors such as your height, weight, riding style, and skill level, you can find a board that enhances your control, balance, and overall experience. Remember, while general guidelines provide a solid starting point, personal preferences and specific riding conditions also play significant roles. Hopefully this article has cleared some things up to help guide you, don’t hesitate to refer to this when shopping around! Investing time in selecting the perfect snowboard ensures that you’ll have the right equipment to tackle various terrains and conditions with confidence. Whether you’re carving up groomers or exploring backcountry terrain, the right snowboard can make all the difference in achieving your best ride yet.
If you’re located in the Salt Lake area come down to our store and we can get you hooked up with the sickest board made for what you want to tackle in the mountains.
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